The enduring appeal of Jean Paul Gaultier's iconic Birkin design

In the family of Hermès Birkin bags, the Shoulder Birkin is a rare species recognisable by its east-west proportions and sporty mien. Eschewing the bulk and volume of its predecessors, Jean Paul Gaultier (creative director of Hermès between 2003-2010) introduced the style in 2004. It went on to become a cult insider buy, handmade in small quantities until production ceased in 2013.

With a flurry of interest in the horizontal east-west style triggered by newcomers such as Alaïa’s Teckel design, Hermès reintroduced the style in 2024, giving it a new moniker: the Shoulder Birkin Light 29. The design team under Nadège Vanhéee recalibrated its dimensions and scale, making it easier to wear under the shoulder with its new span of 29cm (or alternatively in the crook of the arm or hand). Consider it a cabriolet of handbags – dynamic, sleek, light.

Currently up for auction at Christie’s is this immaculate version, which is in Grade I condition and in a lovely warm putty shade called Biscuit Evercolor. The generous strap drop, gleaming gold hardware and signature padlock emphasise the class of this bag, which would have been handmade in the Hermès workshops in Pantin, just outside Paris. It also boasts a leather lining and two interior pockets, and partners particularly well with lean, supple tailoring, but equally well with denim.

The elusive nature of the style (not many enter the secondary market as clients love to hang on to them) is reflected in the estimate of $18,000-$26,000. True connoisseurs order removable liners to protect the interior and massage the leather to keep it supple and fit. The Shoulder Birkin Light, like every Birkin, demands attention and care, but equally attracts admiration. Join the bidding?