Brown In Town
Shades of brown from conker to camel are usurping monotone black and white as a signal of urban chic. Magda Butrym crafted semi sheer cellophane like trench coats in cocoa, Stuart Vevers at coach went rustic with patchwork linen maxi skirts and Calvin Klein championed oatmeal suiting with low riding trousers and single-breasted jackets.
Pretty Baby
Designers might well have been reviewing iconic fashion films including Virgin Suicides, Pretty Baby and Picnic on Hanging Rock while prepping their Spring Summer collections. There was broderie anglaise, lace and petticoat layers in abundance lending an innocent air to the gritty world. Polish Magda Butrym, who has just opened a store in NYC layered up pretty little camisoles and slips while Anna Sui offered up diaphanous floral print kimonos, empire line gowns rippling over rhinestone stud denims. Riffing on the ritual of a walk of shame, Anglo-American designer Conor Ives merged romance with grunge with his fringe skirts and marabou-trimmed embroidered bed jackets beloved of Sienna Miller. To waft and to flow is the new fashion goal.
Streamers and Sequins
Ready for Easter parades, celebrations and red carpets creatives upped the ante on party wear with giddy looks that fizzed with electric colour and shine. At Coach, there were fish tailed column dresses in fuchsia and turquoise (happy 85 th birthday Coach), at Monse mermaid gowns in chrome sequins while Henry Zankov, new creative head at Diane von Furstenberg cut sweeping one shoulder gowns in pink chiffon and orange silk. But it was Area that shifted the needle with fabulous shifts and tops made from strings of shiny ribbons in silver and electric blue.
More Flora
Everyone’s favourite spring motif was in its fullest bloom. Ulla Johnson showing outside near Brooklyn Bridge showed a line-up of gossamer fine camisoles and flounce skirts in shades of blossom pink, aqua and coral married with poplin shirts and gabardine trenches hand painted with flowers. After fashion week is over she is contributing to the landscaping of the area with native plants and trees. Thom Browne also got the nature bug and championed butterflies, bees and ladybugs as motifs with an opening scene featuring an army of caterpillars dancing around a cocoon. What emerged was an ode to couture craft with giant sunflowers appliqued onto plaid coats, butterfly wing patterns onto crinolines and Poiret-esque cocoon wraps, and dragonflies onto sheer pencil skirts.
Statement Skirts
With trousers dominating for so long, time is ripe for a skirt comeback. Find polka dot flamenco styles at Caroline Herrara, knitted sweater sets at breakout brand Eckhaus Latta, city smart wrap cuts at Proenza Schouler, molten gold columns at Ralph Lauren and gorgeous lace knit ones at Khaite.