Collage artist Patrick Waugh meets the best new watches of 2026
Best in show: first presented at this year’s Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, innovative timepieces are anchored in traditions of watchmaking
POLO 79 BY PIAGET
Piaget has long been known as a master of ornamental hardstone dials and this new iteration of the emblematic Polo 79 matches a white-gold case and bracelet with a textured, midnight blue sodalite dial.
POA, piaget.com
PREMIÈRE GALON BY CHANEL
Chanel first introduced its Première watch – with a geometric case shape inspired by Paris’ Place Vendome – in 1987. Last year, the maison added the Première Galon to its offering, fitted with a rigid bangle, and this year comes the launch of a limited-edition black-and-white version, set in white gold.
POA, chanel.com
Première Galon by Chanel.
MIDNIGHT JOUR NUIT PHASE DE LUNE BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
‘Poetry of the heavens’ is Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative theme for 2026 – cue cosmos timepieces such as the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune watch: a white-gold case houses two overlapping complications, one animating a day/ night-time display, the other showing the current moonphase.
POA, vancleefarpels.com
Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune by Van Cleef & Arpels.
ALPINE EAGLE 41 XPS BY CHOPARD
Chopard’s line of Alpine Eagle sports watches is named for the eponymous raptor, for which the Swiss brand established the Alpine Eagle Foundation to protect. A new model features a gold base dial, which has undergone a galvanic treatment to obtain a finish inspired by the bird’s iris.
POA, chopard.com
Alpine Eagle 41 XPS by Chopard.
CARTIER BAIGNOIRE CLOU DE PARIS BY CARTIER
A jewellery watch that has been worn by Catherine Deneuve and Romy Schneider, the Baignoire continues to inspire: a new model has been engraved with a Clou de Paris design, which results in a tactile, repeated pattern of small pyramid-shaped squares.
POA, cartier.com
Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris by Cartier.
LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR ‘LUMEN’ BY A. LANGE & SÖHNE
With a dial made from smoked sapphire, details of the timepiece’s movement can be glimpsed. The display includes power reserve, month, date, time, moonphase and leap-year cycle, finished with the glow-in-the-dark compound lumen.
POA, alange-soehne.com
Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen by A. Lange & Söhne.
OYSTER PERPETUAL 28 BY ROLEX
The Oyster Perpetual is best known as a stainless steel Rolex. However, new iterations this year include one model with a satin-finish, yellow-gold bracelet and matching 28mm case.
POA, rolex.com
Oyster Perpetual 28 by Rolex.
OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA TOURBILLON PLATINUM BY BVLGARI
Fitted with a satin-brushed and polished platinum bracelet, the 40mm platinum case of Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum frames a blue-tone skeletonised dial. The geometric timepiece measures a mere 1.85 mm in total thickness.
POA, bulgari.com
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum by Bvlgari.
HISTORIQUES AMERICAN 1921 BY VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Cast in pink gold, the cushion case of the American 1921 references the design codes of the deco era. New this year is a grained silver-toned dial with blue markings.
Historiques American 1921 by Vacheron Constantin.
