The language of textiles and rugs is a mysterious one. A vocabulary with differences that lie, quite literally, on the floor, but also in details that only the specialist can discern. One of those experts is Jess Maybury. ‘I’m used to looking at 5,000 things and seeing that one incredible object,’ the textile dealer says of her globe-spanning sourcing trips, going on to explain, ‘It started with Ralli quilts from Pakistan’s Sindh region.’
Formerly a model, Jess faced campaigns for Lanvin, Vivienne Westwood and, most notably, Marni – a brand she remains close to. ‘If I’d done a modelling job and was a bit flush, I’d buy 10 or so quilts and sell them through my Instagram,’ Jess says of the beginnings of her business.
From there she went on to host pop-ups and collaborate with furniture dealers such as Milo Cordell and interior decorator Jermaine Gallacher. Now having established her showroom in London’s Hoxton, Jess’ space exemplifies her eye for beautiful discoveries. ‘I have suzanis from Uzbekistan, kanthas, Iranian wall hangings, banjara bags, kilims and more,’ she gestures. The thrill of the chase has always driven her, ‘Whether at a market, auction or even house clearance, I’m guided by instinct, looking for what’s been forgotten. I get so happy spotting something that I’ve never seen before.’
Growing up in Woodstock, Jess was surrounded by exquisite fabrics; her mother, Louisa Maybury, is the founder of a beloved textile gallery in the small Oxfordshire market town. ‘When I was young, I joined her on sourcing trips and now at 32, I’m still doing the same,’ she says of a tutelage that’s taught her well. The pair visited India earlier this year, ‘We met dealers that I’ve known since I was 10 and am now working with. My mum’s influence has been fundamental to me, her curiosity always inspiring.’
‘People have been trading in fabric crafts for thousands of years, there is a deep tradition of visual storytelling intrinsic in every stitch’
She recently returned from a visit to New York where she is stocked by Surrender Dorothy on Union Square. The bright, block-coloured walls of the cult store act as the perfect foil for a selection of her richly patterned quilts. ‘A textile is artwork, much like an abstract painting. Some with psychedelic or science-fiction-like results,’ Jess laughs. It’s an exciting aesthetic but it’s never too serious; it feels joyous.
Parsing the history from each piece is important to her too. ‘People have been trading in fabric crafts for thousands of years, there is a deep tradition of visual storytelling intrinsic in every stitch. Definitions vary from village to village, one natural dye to another. I’m still learning all the time,’ Jess admits modestly. ‘Decoding a rug, for example, can sometimes be much harder than a painting or sculpture.’ A collection of reference books in her showroom is testament to this. Riffling through archaic tomes is part of the job, but Jess doesn’t deny the utility of a Google reverse image search. In the esoteric world of textiles, there are positives to technological advancement.
There’s also no denying the emotional resonance each piece holds. ‘I always think about the women who so often made them in groups,’ Jess says. ‘These have taken hours of work to create, usually way beyond the input of an “art bro” painting... Textiles can still be represented as a twee, feminine hobby, but what’s quaint about women making things together? To me, people being creative is one of the purest things.’
Now with clients including stylist Francesca Burns, designer Ashley Williams and actor Patricia Arquette, what’s next for Jess? ‘It’s more about where I’d like to learn about next... I want to explore South America and the textiles of Guatemala,’ she says excitedly.