The coming of age of South East London dining
Once defined by its hidden gems and pop-up culture, South East London has matured into a formidable dining destination where independent chefs are setting the pace for the rest of the city
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From forward-thinking Asian small plates to modern British classics built for long, lazy lunches, the restaurant scene in South East London has been upping its game in recent years to the point where, now, a hop south of the river is a must for anyone seeking the city’s finest fare.
Peckham alone has become a hotbed of exciting new openings vying for attention along Rye Lane and beyond. Here, the creative spirit of the area has concentrated into a culinary destination that takes this vibrancy and refines it, spotlighting heavyweight new talents and creating dining spots that feel elevated yet unfussy, with a focus on memorable dishes at an accessible price point. Elsewhere, head to Herne Hill for inviting neighbourhood restaurants, or to Bermondsey for natural wines and seasonal produce.
Read on for a potted guide to our pick of the region’s best restaurants.
Hausu
Taking up residence in the space formerly occupied by Peckham stalwart Coal Rooms, Hausu opened its first brick-and-mortar spot in 2024 after a series of successful pop-ups and its permanent incarnation has been just as much of a triumph. Helmed by head chef Holly Middleton-Joseph, Hausu is a true fusion of global ideas - inspired by her Trinidadian and Chinese heritage, an “Italian approach” to cooking, and copious travels to Cambodia, Australia and more. If all that sounds like a bit of a mish-mash then Middleton-Joseph knows how to curate this cultural smorgasbord into a menu that’s slick, stylish, and some of the best food we’ve had in a long time. Their toasted rice ice cream with a five-spice caramel is an expertly balanced dance of sweet and savoury, while a small bowl of what they call Dad’s Broth arrives as the most umami-drenched, soul-warming soup you’re ever likely to sip. All situated in a cosy yet chic railway arch that also boasts a newly-launched listening bar and drinking den upstairs, Hausu is a true gem in the crown.
11a Station Way, Peckham, SE15 4RX
Llewelyn’s
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Sitting on the increasingly buzzy, pedestrianised stretch alongside Herne Hill station, Llewelyn’s has all the hallmarks of a perfect neighbourhood eatery: a bright and airy dining room ideal for friendly catch-ups or work lunches, with plenty of outside tables for the summer and a next-door deli, Lulu’s, selling provisions to take home. Their concise menu favours seasonal, modern British fare, with an above-average line in fish (a John Dory with chicken butter sauce dish is fabulous) and generous portion sizes that’ll leave you undoing a top button. If you’re in the mood for a snackier selection, plump for fat slabs of potato bread and delicate pink pickles to start, and order the finely sliced pork collar with peppery, horseradish-spiked celeriac remoulade whilst working your way through their abundant wine list.
293–295 Railton Road, Herne Hill, SE24 0JP
Levan
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Beloved since its opening in 2018, Levan wears its European sensibilities proudly – from their menu, “inspired by the ‘bistronomy’ movement and [their] favourite restaurants in Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen, Barcelona and Stockholm”, to the relaxed yet spirited atmosphere of their Peckham space. With copious bottles of wine lining the walls to get you in the mood for a good time, grab a table at the counter for a short set lunch (£20 for two courses; £25 for three) or bed down in their central dining area for a long, lazy meal. A hefty stack of comté-festooned brick-like ‘fries’ is their indulgent signature dish, while other big-hitters include a rich massaman crab brioche, and a radicchio and Ossau-Iraty vol-au-vent.
12-16 Blenheim Grove, Peckham, SE15 4QL
Dockley Road
Affiliated with Bermondsey’s produce destination Spa Terminus, Dockley Road Kitchen takes both a super seasonal and super local approach, sourcing the majority of its ingredients from neighbouring vendors and using them to create magic. A bright and inviting space that opened its doors last year, most of their compact menu is ever-shifting, but a few playful sharing plates have become their trademark: a porky ‘banh mi’ terrine and an internet-baiting cacio e pepe dauphinoise that’s decadent in all the best ways. Here, chef Emily Chia (formerly of St. John) has created a menu of good mood food with an atmosphere to match.
1 Dockley Rd, Bermondsey, SE16 3AF
Forza Wine
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Forza Wine may slowly be creating an empire, with branches now open at the National Theatre and in Soho, but Peckham remains restaurateurs Bash Redford and Michael Lavery’s spiritual home. Perched on the rooftop of the area’s bustling Cornerhouse building, it’s an oasis away from the hubbub of the streets below: a place to sip aperitivo, linger over “Italian-ish” sharing plates, and gaze across the city (in summer, Forza is a particular delight). Their signature Custardo - an affogato-style dessert that swaps vanilla ice cream for creme anglaise - has taken on a life of its own, but their generous savoury plates are equally worth the trip: fresh, ingredient-first delights such as braised beans with ham, pea, mint and pecorino, or bavette steak with spinach, chilli and fennel.
The Rooftop, 133A Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4BQ
Lai Rai
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Within less than six months of opening, Vietnamese canteen Lai Rai earned a prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand - the culinary institution’s marker of excellent cooking at an affordable price tag - and the Rye Lane restaurant’s approach embodies this spirit. Serving banh mi and Vietnamese coffee by day before pivoting to small plates and cocktails at night, it’s a place to go when you want quality cooking and a relaxed, unfussy ambience. Cross the threshold of their red-and-white striped awning, and embrace a social, snack-focussed menu that combines classic south east Asian flavours with clever twists. Their chao com prawn lollies covered in toasted rice are a must, while dishes such as a papaya salad with braised pig ear and pineapple come good on their experimental promise.
181 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4TP
Marcella
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The sister restaurant of Peckham’s Artusi, Marcella switches up the postcode but doesn’t skimp on the quality, offering up a short menu of Mediterranean dishes and an all-Italian wine list that will have you dreaming of balmy summer holidays far removed from Deptford High Street. If you want to fully indulge in tradition, order a small primi-sized handmade pasta course such as their pipe all'amatriciana – a classic Roman dish involving guanciale - and then move onto meat or fish secondi mains. Their wine selection is at least four times as extensive as their food, so if you’re just in the mood for a tipple, there’s plenty to keep you entertained on that side too.
165A Deptford High St, SE8 3NU
40 Maltby Street
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An oldie but a goody, 40 Maltby Street – a gem in Bermondsey’s titular Maltby Street Market - has been luring happy diners to its railway arch enclave for a decade and a half now. Its pull still remains for good reason: attached to Gergovie Wines – importers of excellent, non-interventionist bottles that are available here to sip by the glass - their blackboard menu changes by the week, featuring a seasonal selection of dishes designed to “celebrate the produce of this island and also its proximity to the continent”. That means very British dishes such as a wild rabbit and bacon pie sitting next to salt cod brandade or pickled sardines with sorrel. It’s a place that demands you keep coming back.
40 Maltby St, Bermondsey, SE1 3PG
The Good Life remixed - A weekly newsletter with a fresh look at the better things in life.
Lisa Wright is a culture journalist who is a regular contributor to ES Magazine, The Guardian and The Independent